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They'd crowd Wmoan the brothels on payday, covered with coal dust, and flush with banknotes and all the "eagerness" they'd built up underground. Puetto was 40 years ago. But the girls aren't just "friendly" Argentines, she says. They also hail from ColombiaParaguay or even the Dominican Republic — women who are lured here by stories about "getting paid more" in the south. Upstairs for "dessert" Vilma says the business began when she was a teenager, in this very house. Back in the s, it was a popular local restaurant, run by her father.

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They had a cook called "Manitos," as he was so deft with his hands manos for cooking, cleaning and readying customers' bills. But as Manitos aged, Vilma and her sisters began exploiting a parallel activity already complementing the eatery's earnings: Punta Arenas, capital of Chile's Magallanes Region, is two hours away in the opposite direction. In all of these places, prostitution is surprisingly brisk. An oil rig in Patagonia, Argentina — Photo: And yet its receives approximatelytourists a year. Oil and mining firms also have operations here, and pay their workers relatively well. But she will also face a constant risk to her personal safety, and spend a good deal of that money on high rents, drink and probably drugs.

Money to be made There are about 1. That excludes the drink and drug businesses that prosper on the sidelines. There are many lonely or single men here who work hard and earn good money, and that is just one factor fueling prostitution. At some point, the business evolved thanks to the Internet. Women from other countries started "coming down" to Patagonia, often stopping in Santiago or Buenos Aires, the Chilean and Argentine capitals. It was completely remodelled last year by Roberto Cancino, the interior designer of the Natalino see belowand the 28 rooms follow the same minimalist lines, with neutral colours and lots of wood.

Just one block from the main square, it's open all year round and will let you leave your luggage if you go off trekking. The first-floor rooms all have views over Last Hope Sound Wpman from the corner room's double-height windows rrady can see all the way to the Paine mountains. The small, bright rooms have cool design touches — wicker lampshades, handwoven throws, pebble coat hooks — and the wooden wall behind the bed has been recycled from the frames of greenhouses. The open-plan ground floor has plenty of seating, the Coffeemaker cafe and bar plus the services of Antares Travel, which offers kayaking, biking, horse riding and trekking adventures. Perched on the shore of Last Hope Sound with views across to the Serrano and Balmaceda glaciers, it's surrounded by 25 acres of grassland with grazing horses.

The seven bedrooms mix antiques with contemporary comforts, including free Wi-Fi, and the restaurant serves classic Patagonian ingredients — fish, seafood, lamb — with a modern twist.

Explore the surrounding countryside on horseback or by bike, or ask the hotel to natalez arrange trips further afield. Light reary through the glass wall of the atrium, providing natural heat and ventilation. A staircase dramatically zig-zags its way to the 15 small but perfectly formed rooms, where you'll find white walls and lots of native lenga wood. The two puerti each have their own Jacuzzi and there's also a hot tub for sharing and stunning views from the third-floor terrace. The hotel specialises in four- and five-day fly-fishing itineraries but will also arrange day trips to the national parks, and mountain-biking tours.

A newly built wing brings the room total to 28, and they all make the most of a small space, with wood-panelled walls and splashes of colour from handwoven woollen blankets. The large, open-plan lounge bar is kept cosy with an open fire and, if you don't want to go into town, the restaurant serves local dishes that you can pair with a good choice of South American wines. To ease any post-trek aches and pains, wend your way down the wooden walkway to the spa and the free outdoor hot tubs for spectacular sunset views.

The white-and-glass facade — which turns icy-blue at night — resembles a glacier. Inside, a sparkling granite staircase cuts through three-storey-high concrete walls, as though it were a crack in the ice. The 21 minimalist rooms have white walls, slate floors, dark-wood furniture and flatscreen TVs, and the top-floor suite has a double-height loft space, perfect for families. There's also a heated indoor pool with views over town and beyond, a small fitness centre and lounge bar. Alamy Set on the waterfront of Last Hope Sound, Indigo was designed to resemble a barn — externally at least.


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